Well, I don't know how much of a start I'll get on my build this side of Christmas, as everything is up in a heap, but I'll get the thread started anyway. It was just exciting to open a fresh kit as I haven't touched a model in nearly two months let alone a new build. So here goes...
This is the aircraft I'll be modelling using the Roden 1:72 An-12BK Cub
The box shots...
Everything nicely sealed and contained. There a fair weight of plastic in there!
The sprue shots... aaaaah, the smell of fresh plastic!
The extras I'll be using for the build. Decals by Authentic Decals. Photoetch by ACE.
First things first, I'll dunk the clear parts in Johnsons Klear and leave them as long as possible. This will protect the clear parts during the build (e.g., protects from fogging caused by glue)
Then I'll need to study the instructions for a while to figure out the best build approach and which subsections can be built up quickly. Also do I add a whole lot of pain to the build by doing the interior too!?
wish i had room to do something like that...........ive got a few big 4 engined bombers in the stash, dare not sstart them as i currently have nowhere to put them
martay wrote:quick Q, after leaving to dry from the klear, can you mask the canopy as per the norm without removing or damaging finish ?
Yep, no problem with masking. Think of it as a clear protective coating. It makes the clear parts even clearer by filling in all those micro-scratches. It's the first thing I do with a new kit and I'll leave it cure for as long as possible so that it's rock hard before masking. If it does lift when removing the masking tape then a little drop of Klear applied to the area will sort that problem out. Also, it works great for sorting out the framing where the paint seeps under the masking tape causing an uneven edge on the window frame. A wooden cocktail stick soaked in isopropyl alcohol will remove the Klear (and the paint on top of it) and therefore tidy up the edge of the frames. Add some more Klear over the corrected area and it's neat and clear again. I hope that makes sense.
beowulf wrote:sheesh....thats going to huge!
It sure is big and I'm already sussing out what models will need to be moved to fit her on the shelf.
Well I finally returned to the bench after a two month break to start my Dirty Russian build... and I wish I had chosen an easy model to get me back into the swing of things! This model is plagued with manufacturing errors and that means there's a lot to be corrected even before the parts can be glued together. The model suffers badly from sink marks, sink lines, raised ejector pins, poor plastic moulding, soft edges, panels lines that don't match up, mating parts that differ in size, a lot of flash... the list goes on!
I started with getting the first subsections together... the wings. I filled the sink marks and had to so a lot of filling on the leading edges as the upper and lower sections differed in size by about 0.5mm - 0.75 in parts which resulted in a nasty lip on the leading edge. I could have aligned the parts so that the trailing edge was out but I figured it would be easier to fix and sand the curved leading edge rather than sanding the thinner trailing edge.
Next I filled the sink marks and bad mould pour marks on the forward section of the fuselage. There's not much detail for the interior, and the supplied roof and floor are incorrect, so I'll be modelling this bird closed up.
The tail section of the fuselage suffers from a lot of sink lines due to the moulded frame on the inside. I don't think I'll bother filling these sink lines as they might add a bit of interest to the outer fuselage and give the impression of stress on the metal skin.
I then tackled the engines which require a lot of work to look good. Again, all parts suffered from some sort of problem.
To fix the soft moulding on the thin ridge around the engine exhaust, I added some small bits of plastic with liquid cement and mixed until the plastic had dissolved. I then applied the mix to the problem areas. Nothing fills, sticks and bonds plastic better than plastic itself. If I had used filler in this area I wouldn't be able to get a thin sharp edge without it flaking off.
More to follow soon.
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