Camo masking

There's no such thing as a stupid question so fire away!
User avatar
martay
Posts: 2102
Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2012 9:49 am

Camo masking

Postby martay » Sun Jun 03, 2012 9:45 am

Ok seen as how im partially some way responsible for this new forum, thanks Vinny, [smilie=first.gif]
id love to get a few tips on a clean and tidy way of masking off RAF camo patterns to get the slight misting of the colors, ive heard blue tack is a good trick but ive never done it so anything to get past the silly cock up bits ya kick yerself for later would be great, and is there a good measure for the mix on enamels or is it feel it out as you go, practice first.org/think@it.ie, ill have to pull out some of the real old ones ive been meaning to 'fix up' !
So ya thats it, im starting the typhoon MKIIb so ill be getting ready to do that and the spittie soon.
Thanks for any help
Martin [smilie=banghead.gif]
Man with hand in pocket, feel cocky all day
Image

User avatar
Chris S
Posts: 180
Joined: Sun May 06, 2012 3:10 pm
Location: Ballynahinch
Contact:

Re: Camo masking

Postby Chris S » Sun Jun 03, 2012 11:29 pm

Hi Martay ,

Blu tac is one way of doing it ,but you still need to mask up between the rolls of it .
A far simpler way is paper masks . Check the paint guide with your kit ,some times these are done to scale ....ie the same size as the kit .Its just a matter of photo copying them a couple of times ,then cut out and use as the mask . If not then lay a bit of paper below the wings and draw the outline to give you the size ,but leave a little extra all round to compensate for the curve over the wing . Then lay the paper template over the wing and simply copy the camo from the paint guide onto your paper ,when you cut the template apart this gives you a mask for both colours :) . Same applies to the tailplanes . But the fuselage you need to cut paper to wrap around the different areas where the camo is ,then again with the paper wrapped round ,draw on your camo pattern and cut it out .
To put the mask in place ,use tiny blobs of blu tac to hold it in position ,also a little tape on the wing edges . The blu tac holds the paper slightly off the model so when you spray it leaves a slightly 'feathered' edge ...which should be what you're aiming for .Obviously you need to go easy with the paint and apply it lightly and dont spray at an angle or you will blow the paint under the mask . Paint straight at the surface and you'll have no problems ;)

Hope that helps a bit .

Chris.

User avatar
Vinny
Posts: 3916
Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 10:31 pm
Location: Cork

Re: Camo masking

Postby Vinny » Mon Jun 04, 2012 12:41 am

Hi Marty!

I don't think there are any hard and fast rules when it comes to airbrushing enamels. Some will be quite thick in the pot and will require a lot more thinner than those that are of normal consistency. Basically, you'll want to mix to a milky consistency... I'm still not sure if it's meant to be full fat, semi-skimmed or skimmed though! How thin you need your paint will also depend on the job you're doing.

I tend to work a lot with gloss enamels so I thin the paint down a lot and work with very light coats building up the colour over a few sessions spread out of a few days. Inbetween each session I tend to lightly sand out any bits of dust or fibres before the next coat goes on. I'm not a fan of applying heavy wet coats as I always mess them up. :roll:

I also follow the a light to dark painting technique. I spray the the lightest colour first and work up to the darkest. The dark colours cover light ones easily so not as much paint is applied to the model. It takes more paint to build up a light colour over a dark colour.

As for the camo patterns, the Blu-tac method works a treat but use good quality tac as residue has been known to cause staining on matt paints. Roll the Blu-tac into long lengths and place on the surface in the desired fashion. When you're happy with the shape, fill the areas not to be painted with masking fluid or tape. Then spray at 90 degrees to the model surface so that no paint gets under the Blu-tac rolls and you get that feathered effect.

Chris has explained the paper masks nicely and as you saw from his Spit build (and George's too) this method achieves excellent results. I haven't tired it myself but I will next time I do a camo I'd say.

HTH

Vinny [smilie=thumb.gif]

User avatar
martay
Posts: 2102
Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2012 9:49 am

Re: Camo masking

Postby martay » Tue Jun 05, 2012 12:01 am

Thanks for the advice guys ill be using it soon so ill be showing the progress ans keepin ye informed of the progress.
Cheers Martin
Man with hand in pocket, feel cocky all day
Image

Dyno
Posts: 17
Joined: Thu May 31, 2012 8:54 pm

Re: Camo masking

Postby Dyno » Sun Jun 24, 2012 8:30 pm

Hi folks,

Just a few extra tips for using blu-tac- acryllic matt paints are quite vulnerable to residue so I'd advise putting on a few light coats of purity-seal or Johnson's Clear/Future and leave it 'cure' foe a day or two. This should protet from the gum residue in the blu-tac.

If airbrushing acryllic paints, remove the bl-tac before the paint dries as it could cause ridges to form if dry. As acryllics dry so quick, try adding some 'slow-dry' [Vallejo] to the paint.

Eoin

User avatar
Vinny
Posts: 3916
Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 10:31 pm
Location: Cork

Re: Camo masking

Postby Vinny » Sun Jun 24, 2012 11:29 pm

Very true about the residue Eoin and top man for bringing it up and giving a solution. I've had that problem on matt enamel too but thought it might have been down to the tac I used. Some brands are more oily (or whatever they use in them) than others. I'm not sure is there a difference between the blue stuff and the white stuff. I suppose buy the best one and not got for some cheaper discount brand.

I haven't heard of Purity-Seal.

Vinny

User avatar
martay
Posts: 2102
Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2012 9:49 am

Re: Camo masking

Postby martay » Fri Jul 06, 2012 11:33 pm

Dyno wrote:Hi folks,

Just a few extra tips for using blu-tac- acryllic matt paints are quite vulnerable to residue so I'd advise putting on a few light coats of purity-seal or Johnson's Clear/Future and leave it 'cure' foe a day or two. This should protet from the gum residue in the blu-tac.

If airbrushing acryllic paints, remove the bl-tac before the paint dries as it could cause ridges to form if dry. As acryllics dry so quick, try adding some 'slow-dry' [Vallejo] to the paint.

Eoin


So forgive me for a sec but what is johnsons clear/future??? is it furniture polish or what? @o)
Man with hand in pocket, feel cocky all day
Image

User avatar
Spud
Posts: 4162
Joined: Sat May 05, 2012 10:42 pm
Location: Cork
Contact:

Re: Camo masking

Postby Spud » Sat Jul 07, 2012 12:50 am

answered in your other tred
Image

Gazxro
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2012 1:40 pm

Re: Camo masking

Postby Gazxro » Wed Oct 17, 2012 3:52 pm

I think that paint down a lot and work with very light coats building up the color over a few sessions spread out of a few days...and tell me about the color which type of color is used in this...


Return to “Modelling Questions”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest